Driving up to Whakapapa ski field on Mt Ruapehu, in the Tongariro National Park right in the center of New Zealand's North Island, on New Year's day 2004, I found much pleasanter weather conditions than on my first visit back in May 2003 (check here).

A bright blue midsummer sky and warm golden evening sunshine brought out the crazy tormented volcanic rock shapes on the slopes of New Zealand's holy mountain to the best advantage, and from the rim of the deep drop down into the next river valley I had a clear view across to Mt Doom - or Mt Ngauruhoe, as it is known today.

I stood in the very place where Frodo drank the last drops of water from Sam's bottle and the hobbits acknowledge to each other that there will be no way back. Much filming went on here, seeing as the location is relatively easily accessible, and the ski field doubled not only for the tormented plains of Mordor, but also for the Emyn Muil - it does look much different under different weather conditions, as can be seen in my earlier slideshow